THEY SAY EVERYTHING IS BIGGER IN TEXAS. Even the barbecue. Big meats dominate the scene. And brisket is king. The “Lone Star State,” as it’s known in Texas, is the second largest state in the United States, covering over 268,000 square miles (over 695,000 square kilometers). Sweden could easily fit in Texas, along with another half Sweden.
From the mesmerizing landscapes to the people from various backgrounds to the food, Texas is uniquely distinct, with each region offering its own history and subculture. With Texas being so vast, it’s commonly broken down into regions, North, South, East, West and Central, with each having a distinct style of barbe-cue. North and West, typically revolve around “Cowboy” cooking, a style derived from the early Cowboy settlers, cooking over open fires. In the East, the region is predominantly associated with African American culture, smoking low and slow over hickory wood with sauces to enhance the meat. South Texas is greatly influenced by Mexican Americans, with barbacoa and a blend of Mexican and Texan cuisine, commonly called “Tex-Mex” being incorporated into the barbecue. But out of all the regions, Central Texas style barbecue is the most well-known and popular, inspired by the early German and Czech immigrants of the 1800’s and their meat market style of service and barbecue, characterized by big beef cuts and freshly made sausage.
This popularity has been the catalyst for the barbecue renaissance in Texas over the last ten years. There’s this saying from the University of Texas in Austin. “What starts here, changes the world.” Texas pitmasters would have you believe this as it relates to barbecue. They’re not wrong. Sure, there are various regions around the world that have their style of barbecue and live fire cooking. Those places are vital to the overall cuisine. But many places across the globe mimic Texas barbecue more than any other region. The proliferation of barbecue across the world has been remarkable to watch. And in Texas, barbecue is up there with God and football. At last count, there are over 2,500 barbecue restaurants (most in the United States) in Texas. It’s not challenging to find good barbecue in Texas. Great barbecue is only slightly more difficult, as the cuisine has come a long way over the last decade. But the best of the best? Well, only a handful have that distinction.
Many people start in their backyard, cooking a brisket for friends and family. It’s fun. It’s addictive. It’s infectious.
There’s something about the fire, the process and the meat that taps into our inner carnivore. According to the author Michael Pollan, “cooking over fire is a celebration of who we are.” I’d tend to agree. From that first fire, some things you can’t unsee. And then you can’t help but want to experience this over and over and over. This may lead curiosity about opening a restaurant. Most stay put, content on being that weekend warrior. Many friends and family are going to tell you your backyard barbecue is good. It’s the polite thing to do. That shouldn’t be the sole reason to run and go open a restaurant. What your friends and family probably don’t tell you in how hard it is. Barbecue is hard. Very hard. To many, this is the appeal. It takes courage, dedication, passion and perseverance to get it right, day in and day out. Some never get it right. Most don’t. Many seek shortcuts, the shortest distance between starting and finishing. Life doesn’t work that way. Neither does barbecue. But the very best? They are constantly chasing the ghost of perfection, striving to be better than the day before. Fortune favors the brave. They aren’t afraid of failure. They’re afraid of complacency. Every cook, every brisket in intentional. That’s the difference. This concept also tends to work well in life.
BARBECUE IS HARD. VERY HARD. TO MANY, THIS IS THE APPEAL. IT TAKES COURAGE, DEDICATION, PASSION AND PERSEVERANCE TO GET IT RIGHT, DAY IN AND DAY OUT. SOME NEVER GET IT RIGHT. MOST DON’T.
Sure, much of what we enjoy about food is subjective and familiar, however most can agree on a few key points. Is the place consistency good, with the meats, sides and desserts all standing out as remarkable? And, more importantly, at least to me, how was the experience? How did I feel being there? Did I leave happy? What’s the story behind why they do what they do? While finding extraordinary food has become easier with the advent of social media, very few places exalt the special feeling, like watching your mother cook, sitting at your grandmother’s table or being in the backyard grilling with your father as a kid. Those places are few and far between. And it’s rare when you have relatively new people enter those conversations. Typically, those people and places are reserved for establishments with long histories and people smoking meats for decades. Enter Leonard Botello of Truth BBQ and Ernest Servantes of Burnt Bean Company, two of the premier pitmasters in the United States, without the tenure, but with all the elements to be spoken about years from now. Truth BBQ is six years old, Burnt Bean Com-pany opened in October 2020. Both are ranked in the Top 5 of Texas barbecue places in Texas, according to Texas Monthly, with Truth BBQ ranked number two and Burnt Bean Company ranked number four. When some places in Texas have been operating for fifty, sixty, eighty and over one hundred years, this is quite the accomplishment.
Leonard and Ernest couldn’t be more different. From a personality perspective, Leonard is still relatively shy, even with all the acclaim over the last few years, preferring to let his cooking do the talking. In contrast, Ernest is a fun-loving big personality, always cracking jokes and looking to entertain, either with his food, stories and anecdotes. You’ll always know when Ernest is in the room. Leonard will be the one listening and learning from everyone, a rare skill these days.
From a culinary background, they boy differ as well. Leonard studied biology at Texas A&M University and has always been fascinated with the scientific aspect of cooking, looking to replicate his outcomes by developing concise systems. This helps when you’re smoking one hundred briskets and serving thousands of people versus family and friends in the backyard. He’s self-taught and will freely tell you he learned from watching others, trial and error himself and YouTube. Ernest has been cooking in restaurants for over twenty years and competed on the professional competition barbecue circuit for years. Observing them both cook, you’d think they’re the same person. Methodical, meticulous and resolute, they are purposeful in their approach and quest to improve. It can be a blessing and a curse. The constant drive to progress can be exhausting, leading to feelings of unhappiness. Ironically, people like this are most happy when they’re working and serving others, never content on what they did yesterday, but focused on what they’ll undertake tomorrow. It never stops.
Recently, I had the chance to chat with these two masters of their craft, who are leading the barbecue movement in Texas. They’re approach is simple, yet they stand out for the love and passion they pour into every fire they start, every brisket they smoke, every dish they serve. They’ll be making the trip to Sweden this summer to teach at Holy Smoke BBQ, providing eve-ryone in attendance the chance to learn what makes great barbecue and why.
THEY’LL BE MAKING THE TRIP TO SWEDEN THIS SUMMER TO TEACH AT HOLY SMOKE BBQ, PROVIDING EVERYONE IN ATTENDANCE THE CHANCE TO LEARN WHAT MAKES GREAT BARBECUE AND WHY.
ERNEST SERVANTES
AGE: 43
FROM: UVALDE, TX
How long have you been cooking barbecue?
I’ve been cooking all my life, but professionally since 1998.
ANY FORMAL TRAINING? HOW’D YOU LEARN?
I learned from other Chefs and cooks. No formal training or culinary school. The school of hard knocks.
HOW’D YOU GET STARTED IN BUSINESS AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU OPERATED?
I got started when I was in college and was broke and the only way to eat was to work in the restaurants and get free meals. As I worked at numerous restaurants, I realized I was good at it. While I’ve been cooking professionally since 1998, Burnt Bean Company, the restaurant opened in 2020.
WHO INSPIRED YOU AND YOUR COOKING EARLY ON?
I was inspired by my grandmother, Betty Servantes. She was an amazing cook and had her own restaurant. But I was blessed with so many great cooks in my family.
WHAT’S YOUR COOKING PHILOSOPHY?
My cooking philosophy is very simple. I’m only as good as the next meal I cook. Keep it simple, but execute to perfection. Make sure it’s well thought out and not make it look like I’m trying too hard.
DESCRIBE YOURSELF AND YOUR FOOD. WITH OVER 2,500 BARBECUE RESTAURANTS IN TEXAS IT COULD BE CHALLENGING TO STAND OUT. WHAT MAKES YOUR PLACE UNIQUE?
Puro corazon. (Spanish for “pure love”). We are not a traditional barbecue joint. We are not trying to be like everyone else. We march to our own drum, from non-traditional sides to our signature South Texas Sunday breakfast.
WHY IS TEXAS BARBECUE SPECIAL?
I truly believe we are at the forefront of what is expected to be the best barbecue in the country. That’s why so barbecue places around the country (United States) mimic Texas barbecue. We focus on the purity of meats and take pride in not covering everything in sauce.
WHAT’S THE KEY TO PERFECT BRISKET?
Trimming is key. Quality beef. Consistent cooking temperature. The brisket is done when it’s done. Don’t rush.
PROUDEST MOMENT SO FAR IN YOUR CAREER?
Having the courage to open our restaurant during a pandemic with high inflation and surviving. I think we were crazy, but we stayed focused and determined to survive and try to make some of the best barbecue in the state.
WHAT SHOWS HAVE YOU BEEN ON? WHAT WAS THAT LIKE?
I’ve been on Chopped Grill Masters, Chopped, BBQ Pitmasters, BBQ Pitmasters All-Stars, BBQ Pit Wars, Smoked and a few others I can’t remember. They were the perfect marketing vessel to put Burnt Bean’s name out there and help with my brand.
WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOU’RE NOT IN YOU’RE NOT COOKING BARBECUE?
When I’m not cooking barbecue, I’m either at the golf course or going to restaurants to be inspired.
WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO TEACH EUROPEANS ABOUT AMERICAN BARBECUE?
The Texas tradition, which goes back generations. Show them what we believe is the best barbecue in our country
IF YOU WEREN’T IN BARBECUE, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING?
I’d still work with food as a Chef at a restaurant
TELL US SOMETHING NO ONE KNOWS ABOUT YOU.
I love Texas history, McDonald’s McRib and hunting.
WHAT WOULD YOU TELL SOMEONE
WANTING TO GET STARTED COOKING BARBECUE IN THEIR BACKYARD OR THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS?
For backyard cooks, start small with chicken, then move up to ribs, pork butt then brisket to understand fire management. Keep everything simple. When you start making it complicated with marinades, 23 spice blends and many sauces is when you start to fail. The restaurant business is going to require 110% commitment. No short cuts. Long laborious hours, through horrible weather, day in, day out. But creating some of the best barbecue out there is very satisfying. The barbecue business will humble you very fast or eat you up.
HOW DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO REMEMBER YOU?
I want to create a legacy as one of the best Mexican Pitmasters in the competition and restaurant world. Always willing to help and inspire people. Someone who changed the outlook of what the perception of what Texas barbecue is and should be.
BURNT BEAN COMPANY: RANKED # 4 ON TX TOP 50 LIST / 108 S AUSTIN ST, SEGUIN, TX 78155
WWW.BURNTBEANCO.COM
LEONARD BOTELLO IV
AGE: 33
FROM: LAKE JACKSON, TX
How long have you been cooking barbecue?
I’ve been cooking barbecue for about six years.
ANY FORMAL TRAINING? HOW’D YOU LEARN?
No formal training. No better way to learn than to fail. Repetition is the key. You learn from your mistakes and do it again and again and again and again.
HOW’D YOU GET STARTED IN BUSINESS AND HOW LONG HAVE YOU OPERATED?
I honestly just fell into it. Barbecue is a science project. Everyday it’s something new. The wood is always different. The meat is different. The weather. It keeps you on your toes. I’ve been in business for six years now. Every day is something new when cooking with live fire.
WHO INSPIRED YOU AND YOUR COOKING EARLY ON?
Wayne Mueller (Louie Mueller Barbecue) and Francis Mallman.
WHAT’S YOUR COOKING PHILOSOPHY?
Always use the freshest ingredients, sourced from small farms. Always cook on something you’re not familiar cooking on.
DESCRIBE YOURSELF AND YOUR FOOD. WITH OVER 2,500 BARBECUE RESTAURANTS IN TEXAS IT COULD BE CHALLENGING TO STAND OUT. WHAT MAKES YOUR PLACE UNIQUE?
Comforting. I’ve always wanted to cook traditional Central Texas style barbecue, the way it’s always been cooked. Wood cooking chamber and fire. I’ve always wanted to stay true to the craft and never cut corners.
WHY IS TEXAS BARBECUE SPECIAL?
The simplicity of the craft is what makes it special. Few ingredients, patience and attention to detail.
WHAT’S THE KEY TO PERFECT BRISKET?
CONSISTENCY!
PROUDEST MOMENT SO FAR IN YOUR CAREER?
After six years, we’re still making people smile and seeing people wait in life for our food.
WHAT SHOWS HAVE YOU BEEN ON? WHAT WAS THAT LIKE?
Chopped and a few others, but Chopped was the most stressful. Grabbing a handful of random ingredients and turning them into a dish was such a fun challenge. Especially when it was timed.
WHAT DO YOU DO WHEN YOU’RE NOT IN YOU’RE NOT COOKING BARBECUE?
Typically, when I’m not cooking, I’m out eating. I love food and find it very inspiring. It’s also a great way to set memories for certain places you visit.
WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO TEACH EUROPEANS ABOUT AMERICAN BARBECUE?
I hope to teach them about the how and how it brings people together.
IF YOU WEREN’T IN BARBECUE, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING?
I would most likely be cooking some type of food that involves live fire.
TELL US SOMETHING NO ONE KNOWS ABOUT YOU.
I honestly really enjoy pushing myself to the limits in heat when cooking with fire.
WHAT WOULD YOU TELL SOMEONE
WANTING TO GET STARTED COOKING BARBECUE IN THEIR BACKYARD OR THE RESTAURANT BUSINESS?
I always tell people if you want to start barbecuing, go get yourself a cheap pit (smoker). You will learn more from that pit than any other pit you could buy.
HOW DO YOU WANT PEOPLE TO REMEMBER YOU?
For my food and for making people happy.
TRUTH BBQ: RANKED # 2 ON TX TOP 50 LIST / 110 S HEIGHTS BLVD, HOUSTON, TX 77007
WWW.TRUTHBBQ.COM
